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Els Angels can be reached from many different sides as it is the highest point (484m) of the Gavarres protected area which straddles the counties of Girones and Baix Empordà. From Girona it is a hike of some 12 kms and is quite a climb considering you start at 40m altitude. Just like the Castell de Sant Miquel hike this is suitable for mountain bikes as well as hikers and each group has their favourite routes.
There has been a chapel at the top since 1420 and over the centuries gained importance as pilgrims sought protection from natural and political catastrophes. Floods, plagues and harvest failures as well as wars and bandits were the usual disasters people came with a small offering to ask "La Mare de Deu" for help with.
This became such a visited place that a large hostel or sanctuary was added next to the expanded chapel to cater for the steady flow of visitors. During the French wars (1809-14) it also served as a hospital before it was burned down by an angry French general because Girona was resisting his siege.
Today there are picnic grounds and terraces to enjoy the spectacular views and you can eat or sleep at the recently restored hostel, although it still retains its rustic charm. The chapel has some interesting tile murals depicting hikers and picnickers with an impressive statue of the Lady herself surrounded by angels which dominates the gallery.
We were lucky to still see snow on the ground from the storms of a few days before, a contrast which will seem unbelievable to most people making their annual pilgrimage here on the 2nd of august when finding some shade and a breeze is the main reason to seek Her protection.

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City walls walkway Girona

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From the Cathedral gardens there is quite a steep climb to where you get onto the old city walls. These walls have been extensively restored and you can see a mix of old sedimentary rock, bricks and stones combined with modern materials making it a safe experience for all ages. The views of the Cathedral, Sant Felix Church as well as all of Girona spread out below is worth all the huffing and puffing.
Looking down from the height of the walls you can see Modernist private houses, secret gardens and interesting features such as an ancient "privvy" or toilet incorporated into the wall, presumably for the patrolling guards. Buildings of Girona University, churches and some of the narrow lanes give the Old Town or "Barri Vell" its charm. Once you descend from the walls close to the river Onyar you are in the heart of modern, commercial Girona, at the Placa de Catalunya and only a short walk to the pedestrianised Rambla de la Libertad with lots of shops and cafe  terraces.

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Posted by email from gironaJ (posterous)

As befits a town that has been a settlement since before the Visigoths and later developed and influenced by Romans, Moors, Jews and Catholics ever since, there are many layers of building mixed together here in the Old Town of Girona.
The Cathedral gardens are nestled below the impressive town walls, walls that repelled many sieges over the years and are both high and thick enough to resist any but the best equipped armies. The local council has done a very nice job restoring and incorporating a walkway along the top of the walls, from which the views of the Old Town are one of the best ways to start your visit to Girona.The whole walk takes about an hour and involves some climbing of steps as Girona Cathedral is at the top of a hill with commanding views of the town below.Today we get a look at one side, the gardens, next time we will finish the rest of the walkway.

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The Caixa de Girona Foundation at the Fontana d'Or have put on a wonderful exhibition of some important figures in the Russian avant-garde movement. Works by Kandinsky, Malevich, Goncharova, Falk, Filonov and Olga Rozanova amongst others trace the evolution of the abstract expressionism movement from both impressionist and symbolist roots. On until jan 18th this is a must see for anyone living or visiting Girona this winter.

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