French Christmas tradition-oysters!

The French, as always, have their own way of eating at Christmas. None of these heavy meat based cooked meals with stuffing, gravy and vegetables followed by the "coup de grace" of large helpings of cakes and chocolates for them. No, they have a much better idea, they eat oysters and other seafoods. Keeping it light and healthy and other than a few glasses of white wine, feel fit enough to take a siesta with their partner followed by a coffee instead of passing out in front of the TV.
Only an hours drive from Girona on the motorway you can reach Leucate on the coast, just north of Perpignan. Here you can drive along a spit of land between the Mediterranean and the lagoon where some of the best oysters and mussels are reared in clean unpolluted waters and in harmony with the surrounding protected salt marshes famous for migrating flamingoes and other birds.
In a cut between the lagoon and the sea a cluster of fisherman's shacks line each side of the water and you can buy direct from the fishermen or consume on the premises. This is not a pretentious place and people pour in to sit at plastic tables outside next to the street for two simple reasons-the freshness of the product and the price. The oysters we had were so fresh that they actually squirmed when we squeezed lemon on them. If you happen to be lucky enough for a sunny, windless day then this has to be one of the best ways of spending 24th december, and when you see the bill you can take a few kilos home for friends. Vive la France!

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Posted via email from gironaJ

Rupit -medieval town

Coming from Girona or Barcelona it is an easy and fun drive to Rupit and will take about an hour. The main approach is via Santa Coloma de Farners or Anglès heading to Olot in the comarca of La Selva. At Val d’en Bas you turn towards Vic and a few kms along the main road there is a sign for Rupit. After climbing out of the valley at the top of the escarpment are signs to El Far which means lighthouse and gets it’s name from the white limestone cliffs which were visible to fishermen from the distant Costa Brava. There are some nice walks along the cliffs and a restaurant serving typical local fare and busy on weekends.
Continuing into Rupit itself and parking in the free car park just outside of town since the streets are too narrow for traffic there are various signs with tourist information such as walks, bike rides, hotels and restaurants in the area. Taking a walk into town across a wobbly pedestrian bridge over a river gorge is fun and sets one up for exploring the restored medieval streets. Other than restaurants and hotels it’s fun to look in the various shops selling local cured sausages and several types of cheese made from cows, sheep or goat and aged for different periods. You can always ask for a sample before buying if you are not sure whether the stronger flavours of the older cheeses are for your palate. Another option is to buy some bread and cheese, ham and tomatoes and head down to the river where there are several picnic tables set up under overhanging rocks and it is always cool and shady here even in the hot summer months. There is lots of good exploring to do in the surrounding countryside with old churches, country restaurants and of course El Far which is a couple hours walk away. The vistas of wooded hills and small villages and farms below in the valleys are one of peace and tranquility and take you back in time.

Labels: barcelona, Catalonia, Costa Brava, Girona, Olot, Pruit, Rupit

Michelin Starred Restaurants in Girona Town

When it comes to eating out we are fairly spoiled for choice here in Girona. From the Michelin starred to the humble “plats a emportar” (take away) there is plenty of choice for all standards and pockets.
Starting at the top for those that want to try the “best” the choices are between the 2 star Celler de Can Roca run by the three Roca brothers and Massana a 1 star more traditional option. While not going quite as far as El Bulli an hours drive up the road in Roses the Rocas are definitely into trying to fool your senses of sight and taste with traditional recipes transformed by modern kitchen wizardry into unrecognisable dishes with fancy names and tastes and textures that either amaze or disgust you. As with all these high end establishments you normally feel the portions are pretty skimpy and the barrage of tiny offerings that make up the gastronomic menu somehow lacks the satisfaction of a basic 3 course meal well done. The wine list is impressive but most let Josep the Maitre choose for them and his prediliction for German whites and French reds comes to the fore at the expense of good Spanish alternatives.
At Massana you will at least recognise what you are being served and the ample choice of Spanish wines to accompany the exciting cuisine is as it should be. This restaurant is a favorite with local Girona businessmen and children are barely tolerated, unlike most Spanish restaurants where they are positively encouraged. They have a wide selection of local Catalan and Spanish olive oils and just dipping bread in 2 or 3 different ones makes for a fine appetizer along with a chilled glass of Cava sparkling wine and some whole olives and maybe some wonderfully marbled Pata Negra (Iberic ham). Local specialities include lamb, pork and fresh seafood combined with vegetables bought from the market daily that vary depending on season.
For Can Roca a taxi is the best way to get there as it is a few kilometres out of town and Massana is a 5 minute walk from the train station but parking is always an issue.

Labels: Celler de Can Roca, El Bulli, Massana, Michelin Guide, Michelin star, Spanish cuisine